WM Hotel restaurant reviewed

Peter Wood dons his Hedda Hopper disguise to check out brunch at the new WM Hotel. 


Earlier in August, the opening of the rather swanky WH Hotel caused a ripple of excitement in the Sai Kung community. 


I snuck down there for Saturday brunch with three friends to check out that F&B ocean view exposure. First impressions were good. 


The hotel snakes organically along the Sai Kung shoreline – a shining example of how contemporary design can blend into our landscape. I had chatted earlier in the month to designer Henry Chau of Aedas. He said; “The overall building form is actually driven by the scenic view of the Sai Kung seaview.” The three interconnected V-shaped hotel blocks also greatly increase the number of sea-facing hotel rooms.  Apparently they are mostly booked out until January. So, well done Henry.


The WM certainly looks great. The lobby allows one to breathe in the nearby sea air. The rooftop infinity pool surely must be the best in Hong Kong as it hugs the building. Windows pop with seamless views of the sea and the Sai Kung hills. You can see why it’s already a hit with city folk.


Sadly, the only restaurant open was situated in the basement with a bland view of an empty rotunda. The beige décor, beige menu and beige roast lamb was also uninspiring. Perhaps it will be better after they get their liquor license.  An art installation of wine bottles (for what other purpose did it pose?) teased us throughout our alcohol free meal.


The service was haphazard. But perhaps that is just because the team is new. Our 2 vegetarians had to explain that prosciutto and shrimp were not vegetarian. Overall the ambience is very hotel breakfast and doesn’t deliver on the funky promise of the building.


What the WM needs is an executive chef to make the restaurant a “go to” venue. Contemporary all day dim sum, such as Lung King Heen at the Four Seasons, or Dim Sum Library in Pacific Place spring to mind.

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